Tirupati

The holy hill of Tirumala is one of the most visited pilgrimage centres in India – and indeed the world: it’s said that Venkateshwara Temple eclipses Jerusalem, Rome and Mecca for sheer numbers of pilgrims.

There are never fewer than 5000 pilgrims here at any one time – the daily average is 40, 000 and the total often reaches 100, 000 – anddarshan (deity viewing) runs around the clock. Temple staff alone number 12, 000, and the efficient Tirumala Tirupathi Devasthanams administers the crowds. It also runs guesthouses for pilgrims in Tirumala and Tirupathi, the service town at the bottom of the hill. The private hotels and lodges are in Tirupathi, so a fleet of buses constantly ferries pilgrims the 18km up and down the hill.

Tirumala is an engrossing place, but receives few non-Hindu visitors. The crowds can be overwhelming, but Tirumala somehow has a sense of serenity and ease about it and is worth a visit, even if you’re not a pilgrim.